When one thinks of Arabia or any of the other Middle Eastern countries, one always imagines vast expanse of sand dunes stretching as far as the eyes can see. We too had a similar image in mind before landing in Muscat. For a Bengali it was a huge transition, from a heavily populated and fairly green city to an almost deserted city with sparse population. Instead, as we travelled in Oman’s interiors, we were in for quite a surprise in the form on mountains and oases.
The Al Hajar mountain range lies about 50 kms inland from the Gulf of Oman and stretches for almost 300 kms along the length of the country, from northwest to southeast. The tallest peak rises just under 10,000 feet. The wadis, ravines winding across the mountains are Oman’s real hidden gems. These waterbodies have been the lifeline of people for over thousands of years and provide a glimpse into the flora, fauna and culture of the place and its people. The falaj or canals are dotted all around the mountains, hidden in canyons, which are set up for irrigation for the nearby areas in an otherwise arid land. These wadis can stretch over kilometers and also form tranquil turquoise blue water pools.
On a bright February morning, we loaded our car and sped down the smooth highway, heading from Muscat to explore Wadi Bani Khalid, one of the greenest oases in Oman.
The oases are surrounded by palm groves and fruit orchards with the locals engaged in terrace fields. From the parking lot, we made our way on foot along the falaj into the wadi. The blue-green pools of clear water along the way looked very inviting. This place is popular among the locals as well as tourists for family picnics, pleasant swims in the crystal-clear pool and cliff dives for the adventure buffs. The pandemic has taken a major toll on this place, resulting in sparse tourist visits. Though my parents weren’t too keen, I decided to walk deeper up the wadi as I was eager to explore the underground caves I’ve heard of.
After a 15-minute walk past calm, deep water pools and imposing boulders later, Baba encountered Ahmad, a local lad who offered to lead us further down the Moqul cave.
We made a mental note of an attractive spot for swim on our way back. Ahmad lead us along the zigzagging path over boulders and we landed outside the limestone clad entrance to the cave system. The eggshell white of the tall sarsens painted a very Mckenna’s Gold vibe.
Mamma & Baba chose to take a breather outside the cave while we duck-walked our way inside. The entrance is low, and only six feet wide. Soon, we were twisting and contorting our bodies as we went deeper down. it was pitch dark and we were just hoping that the battery of Ahmad’s torch doesn’t die. Ahmad fearlessly slithers down rocks and boulders with the ease of a veteran. At one point, we suggested turning back but he insisted that the end point is not much further in. suddenly we felt a blast of warm moist air and the roar of gushing water. We were at an underground stream, but unusually, the water was hot and the air thick and almost pungent but breathable. We sat there mesmerized by the sound and having had this off-beat experience. A cauldron of bats exchanged positions as we disturbed their afternoon siesta on our way out of the cave.
Our sweat-drenched bodies and mind felt a hypnotic pull towards the deep turquoise, crystal clear and perfectly tempered water pool. These pools are provided with chains to haul ourselves out. These waters are home to numerous fish, nibbling away at one’s feet giving free foot-spa sessions. It was one of the most satisfying and beautiful sweet waters that I have taken a dip in. We borrowed a pair of swimming goggles and took turns to see the school of colourful fish and the calming blue in general.
After a quick change of clothes, we headed back and grabbed lunch on the way.
Travel Suggestions:
Winters are the best time to visit Wadi Bani Khalid
You can couple your visit to Wadi Bani Khalid along with a night stay in the desert
Carry your swim suits, I am sure you would not be able to resist the waters
The changing rooms are currently not functional, so carrying large set of towels really help
Wearing sunscreen lotion is mandatory
Carry some dry food and water with you
The hike down the moqul caves is not recommended for people with claustrophobia